Wednesday, August 26, 2009

Culture and Violence: The Melanesian Philosophy of Human Dignity

As I volunteer who has been in PNG for 15 months, I was not surprised by the hard facts and shocking truths revealed at the symposium hosted by Divine Word University.

Hard Facts and Statistics
• Gender based violence is now one of the leading factors of HIV infection in PNG.
• In the Highlands, 100% of wives reported being beaten by their husbands.
• In hospitals throughout PNG, trauma patients constitute 70% of all surgical presentations, 65% of all surgical admissions, and 20% of the overall hospital admission rates.
• 75% of all trauma cases are non-accidental.
• Domestic violence constitutes 21% of all trauma cases.
• In Madang alone, between January and July 2009 1,336 cases of assault were reported to the police.
• PNG has the highest maternal mortality rate in the Pacific (730/100,000) PNG is 2nd in the World behind Sub-Saharan Africa
• In one study, 60% of PNG men reported to have participated at least once in gang rapes.
• In incidents of sexual abuse reported in Alotau hospital, 52% of cases were of children under the age of 16.
• 110-150 men and women are accused of sorcery and killed every year in PNG with a higher percentage of these being women.

I felt as if the symposium began to address the real key issues mid-day on the second day. PNG men and women spoke with passion, a real desire to address the issues of culture and violence. They were able to bring together all the issues of traditional cultures, the realities of violence, limitations of governmental sectors, isolation, the effects of the mining industry, pornography, and evolving cultures and limitations networking with other sectors.

Many women and counselors shared their stories of how survivors were first raped by their perpetrator, then by the police, then by the doctors, then by the courts, then by their community.

The Governor of the National Capital District (NCD), a doctor from Modilon Hospital in Madang, and a woman officer working for Boroko Police force in Port Moresby spoke of the truths within the layers of challenges within their sectors.

Governmental: The issue of Government spending in response to trauma was addressed. Trauma is a high cost for governmental sectors such as health and justice. The Governor of NCD spoke openly of the costs of violence and culture in his province. He addressed key issues such as the influx of settlements, transient workers, lack of job placements, homosexuality and PNG’s changing culture. In his response to violence, a hotline has been established that will link callers to a security company within all provinces across PNG.

Health: “Trauma in PNG is an epidemic out of control.” Dr. Vincent Atua, Emergency Dept. Modilon Hosp. Doctors and nurses barely have the time to make rounds and see to their patients. The reality is that the level of engagement at hospitals is on a clinical level. There is no time for social supports such as counseling and rehabilitation. The reality is patients are being sutured with unsterile instruments. Emergency vehicles are bashed and staffs are not trained to make repairs to donor equipment. Identified needs include: trainings in trauma mgt, increased communication with networks, hospital social worker.

Law & Order: In NCD, a pilot project is in its first year establishing the only Family and Sexual Violence (FSV) Unit. The FSV Unit has 10 trained staff working in 3 areas (Wagani, Boroko and Moresby South). The Unit conducts trainings in communities and with ngos, helps to make protection orders accessible, and is working to make amendments to sexual offenses in family court. The officer strongly encourages witnesses to step up and help justice prevail. The realities are there is no fuel in the vehicles to respond or follow up on cases, there is corruption and bribery within the police force itself and police turn women away stating, “This is a family matter. Control it elsewhere.” “Police are forced to resort to illegal methods because the people do not respond.” The police force is looking for more to be done with prevention and networking.

There are governmental sectors, organizations, and individuals who are working to address the culture of violence in PNG; however, more must be done. As stated by the Governor of NCD, “The law and policy is there; what is lacking is the implementation.”

Monday, August 24, 2009

Welcome Home

It felt great to be welcomed back to PNG by so many friends. Madang has really become a home to me and with each hug I felt how much I was truly missed.

I was surprised to realize how much I missed my life in Madang. With such amazing friends and unique adventures and scenery, how could I not miss this place.


I honestly missed the flying foxes, such an important Madang fixture!


I didn't realize how much I would miss the sea and I immediately hit the islands to soak in the sun and sand. The blue coral really brought out the color in my new tattoo I picked up at Artistic Ink in Greenbrier, TN. (plug intended!)


Its dry season now and the winds and sea currents are strong. The children quite enjoy the splash of the waves at Machine Gun Point!


The heavy rains filled the abandoned boat outside my house and the neighbor children decided to have a wash. Too cute!


I met some new friends who travel the skies of PNG. Always the adventurer, I dared to join a test flight above the islands of Madang. Pure bliss!


My bestie Roselyn, her two children Dunston and Stephanie as well as Roselyn's mother, gave me a beautiful carving of PNG's National Emblem with a unique birthday message. While I was home I turned the big 29 and my family here in Madang was sure to celebrate this day with me. I am very lucky to have people who love and care for me, just as my family does at home.

Thursday, August 6, 2009

And an even longer way back.

August 3, 2009
0800-Always the procrastinator, I began to pack my bags. Spices, clothes, books, and of course a float with “cup” holders (an essential item for long weekends resting on the islands).

0900 Tearful goodbyes curbside at the Nashville airport. It’s never easy to leave my family.

I believe I do qualify for the Expert Traveler Lane, thank you very much.

1025 Surrounded by our honored Men of Service, Delta announced the cancelled flight. Smoke and engine in the same sentence is never a good combination. I was put on standby for the next flight to Atlanta and my international connections bumped someone out of their seat.

1430 Arrived in Atlanta 25 minutes after my flight to Tokyo departed. I missed the connection and all my other international connections had to be changed. This must happen frequently with Delta Airlines, because all of us (and we came in masses) were sent to self-service stations. We scanned our boarding passes and our new itineraries were printed. The machine spit out one $7 food coupon, a hotel voucher for Nashville, and a boarding pass to Minneapolis 6 hours later. My itinerary scheduled me to depart from Minneapolis the next afternoon and resume the same flight times to Tokyo and Hong Kong only a day behind. How was I going to tell this ‘machine’ that this was not going to work? I had additional international flights beyond Hong Kong. The flights out of HKG to PNG run once per week and I had scheduled myself a day in Hong Kong to insure I made the flight (and I wanted to buy a camera). Arriving a day later would only give me 25 minutes to exit the plane, go through customs, the rigorous health check, baggage claim, find my gate in the expanse of Hong Kong’s International Airport, and check-in with Air Niugini. “Excuse me Machine, isn’t there another way to make these international connections? And if I am to stay the night in Minneapolis, why is my hotel voucher for Nashville? And if I am expected to delay an entire day, how could I manage to buy 3 meals with $7!”

Finding a Human wasn’t much help either. The Delta Rep hastily directed the masses to a station filled with phones. As time crept by without any sign that a Human voice would be heard on the other end of the line, the masses grew in hostility. I followed the example of those who had abandoned their stations and insisted immediate assistance from the Reps behind the counter. Finally, a Human. An annoyed, over worked, underpaid, self-righteous, American Human. She did not know about International flights. I was in the wrong line, before the wrong counter, and obviously talking to the wrong Human. My work in developing countries has helped me to practice my skills in patience and flexibility, but I was not in a developing country. I was in the United States of America. Surely, in this land of Leaders, someone could manage to sort matters such as these efficiently.

Guess not. Delta counter. International Terminal. Tired, stressed faces from across the Globe stood in line. As I stood and watched our visitors’ frustrated faces, I could not help but to be embarrassed. Of American inefficiencies. The rude tones of the Reps. I soon shared their frustrations. There were no other flights to Tokyo or any other Asian Pacific destination that would put me in Hong Kong in time to make my connection to PNG. No, Delta would not compensate me for my missed connecting flights with Air Niugini. No, they would not upgrade my seats (stomping my American foot again). Whose great idea was it to fly to Minneapolis when the same flight can be made out of Atlanta? The Machine? In the end, I left with an Atlanta hotel voucher and three $7 meal tickets in my hand. Such a crap deal. I headed straight for the bar to join the masses!

August 4, 2009
1230 Hotel-Airport shuttle dropped me at the terminal. More self-service machines. More Reps directing me to phones. Too hung over to fight to speak with anyone. To no surprise my machine could not print my boarding pass. More long lines. Baggage claim tickets, but no sight of my baggage.

1420 Delta Flight Atlanta to Tokyo 13.5 hours. Distance: 7504 miles.

I sat next to a child who had just visited the Coca-Cola museum. Needless to say he wanted lots and lots of Coke. Coke = caffeine. Caffeine = high energy child = no sleep for me. This also meant lots of trips to the bathroom and I wasn’t willing to give up my aisle seat. In and out. Out and in. And on top of all that, with the rebooking of my flights, the Machine or the Human failed to transfer my vegetarian meal request. So I was hung over, hungry, annoyed by Coca-cola boy, had no idea where my baggage was or if I was going to make my connection. Nice.

0500? 1700? (Day or night, I didn’t bother to ask). Tokyo to Hong Kong 4.5 hours.
Would I be able to make the connection to Port Moresby in 25 minutes? The next available flight would be next week, could I possible stay in Hong Kong? Who would pay for my hotel? The Delta Rep made it clear they would not compensate my missed connections. VSO? A week holiday in Hong Kong!!! I would be willing to pay. Maybe VSO would prefer I make another connection, maybe out of Singapore or Australia? It would be nice however to have an unexpected holiday in Hong Kong.

The flight left Tokyo a bit early “to avoid Hong Kong weather,” and arrived 45 minutes before my connecting flight to PNG. At the arrival gate I was met by a young Cathay Pacific Rep holding a sign with my name. “Follow me!” he yelled. We took off with a sprint. Guess we were going to make a run for it after all.

We ran up and down escalators, through Staff Only doors, down empty corridors. We made it to the Cathay Pacific counter. “Ms. Ramsey, are you willing to make this connection without your baggage?” I feel as if I have heard this in a previous life. “We have only located one of your bags and there isn’t enough time to transfer it.” The young guy looked at this watch. A decision must be made soon; I could tell we had more running ahead of us. It wasn’t like I had much of a choice. “Yes, I will board the flight.” No week in Hong Kong. No camera. No duty free. No chance to wash my face or brush my teeth.

Boarding pass in hand, we took off again at a dead sprint. We ran through all the red tape. No customs. No masks or gloves. No health checks. We went through personnel security. No long lines just a pounding heart and a sweaty brow. When we arrived at the gate it was empty; all passengers were boarded. The young guy turned to me and asked, “What about your baggage?” Oh my goodness! What? I thought we had that taken care of at the first counter! Here we go again. By this point I was completely done. I no longer had the energy to deal with airlines, baggage claims, airline representatives typing away on their computers. The Cathay Pacific Rep told me to make a lost baggage claim once I arrived in Papua New Guinea. Yeah right I thought. After giving them the best smile I could manage and pushing a few words around, all three Reps flipped open their mobile phones. I was given a lost claim number and guarantees that once my bags were located they would put them on the next flight to Australia to make a connecting flight to PNG within the week.

Air Niugini Flight PX 110 Hong Kong to Port Moresby 8 Hours.
I looked out my window and realized I wasn’t the only one in the middle of a storm. Supposedly the flight was leaving a bit late because of typhoon warnings! The plane was filled with missionaries and their football team of screaming children, Chinese nickel mine workers and international development workers.

Air Niugini Flight PX 115 Port Moresby to Madang 1 Hour.
I literally never want to board another plane in my life! And I will not need reminding to only pack a carry on!

Back in Madang! Shower, lunch at The Lodge and a nap! Welcome back to Paradise!