Sunday, May 10, 2009

Gum River PukPuk

A pukpuk (crocodile) has been paraded around town as a trophy strapped to the grill of a police land cruiser.

I had the pleasure to hear the story through Dunston and Stpehanie, the children of my bestie Roselyn who I work with at the Creative Self Help Centre. Stephanie said two young sisters were fishing for prawns in the Gum River near their village. The younger of the two warned her sister about the pukpuk. The older sister (13 years old) simply made a joke of it, proclaiming her death would be celebrated in the haus krei and everyone would get to eat pig. Moments later, a 12 foot crocodile jumped out of the water and carried her away. She was screaming for her younger sister to help, but nothing could be done. Soon the villagers were gathered at the river and fingers were pointed to an enemy of the family. Duston said the girl's father is currently in a land dispute with another man in the village, which led them to believe sorcery was involved. They believed the village man spoke to the spirit of the pukpuk and the girl (since she predicted her own demise) and led them to one another.

The family called upon an elder in the village who could speak pukpuk and asked him to release the sorcery and beg the pukpuk to return the girl for burial. The girl's body was returned to the bank of the river. The elder asked the village if they wanted the pukpuk dead and of course this was agreed. The elder tied lamb flaps (common protein dish here in PNG) to a hook and the end of the line to a tree. The next day the pukpuk was caught, beat and dragged behind a truck to the police station. I asked "why take the pukpuk to the police station?" and Dunston said it was for evidence that the pukpuk was under sorcery by the man and he would go to jail. As far as Steph and Dunston knew there wasn't enough evidence to put the man in jail.

The pukpuk was driven throughout Madang. Everyone was taking the opportunity to get their hands on the huge croc. Cameras were flashing and children were screaming. It was intended to be a warning to the people. More like a mobile petting zoo if you ask me. Maybe I am simply jealous that I didn't get to touch it myself?

I am off to the village this week for an outreach with the Deaf education team. We will be staying in a village near the Gum River. I am told that all the bathing and washing will be done in the river....looks like I may get an opportunity to pet the croc after all! Let's hope not!

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