Madang Festival

Friday, June 6th, 2008. This morning, I walked to the bus stop in a larger than normal crowd and wasn’t able to catch a bus. I decided to endure the heat and walk. As I got closer to town and the crowd grew larger, I heard drumming and realized I was walking in the middle of the Madang Singsing Festival! I keep my eyes on the uneven ground to keep from tripping on rocks or tree roots. I looked up to see that I was standing directly in front of a singsing. I was amazed to be so close to this incredible display of PNG culture. I was already running late for my language session, but I couldn’t walk away from this spectacular event. I followed along as they danced their way through the street toward the field where the Festival was held. They wore tall black feathers on their heads, leaves around their waists, pig tusks around their necks, and vibrant colored flowers on their arms and legs. They danced around in circles singing and playing drums. I couldn’t tear myself away to go to the VSO office, I watched in complete awe until they entered the field.


Later in the afternoon, I returned to the singsing with two other volunteers, Denis and Chris. Denis was actually in Zambia working with VSO while I was there with Peace Corps. We know a lot of the same people but we never ran into each other there. It is absolutely incredible to speak ChiNyanja and make references to Zambian culture with him. Chris also visited Zambia on his way to Malawi so he too knows a bit of Nyanja!



In the middle of the field were the stage and many singsings. There were four groups performing in various spots on the field. The Coastal singsings had colorful skirts and boars teeth around their necks while the Highlanders had their faces painted vivid colors. Bright, colorful feathers and flowers covered their heads, arms and legs. They danced and jumped around singing, shouting and playing drums. Denis and Chris said that if people were seen dancing like this in their home of Uganda they would be considered sorcerers.


As I walked around the field with Denis and Chris I noticed a difference in their interactions with the PNG Nationals from what I have experienced in the past two weeks. Everyone greeted them and shook their hands. I can hardly get a “Moning tru.” I don’t know if it can be explained by the fact that they are male, or that they are black or that they have been here longer and are familiar faces to many Nationals.

We walked around the stalls and surprisingly this aspect of the festival was much like any other festival or fair I have been to in the States. There were vendors selling crafts and souvenirs such as laplaps, bilums, paintings and shirts. There were businesses and industries promoting their products and ngos such as Save The Children and Australia HIV/AIDS Council creating awareness. There was face painting and games and of course food vendors. Women cooked fish, sweet potatoes and greens over fires in the back of the stalls and served them on palm leaves. I passed on the food but bought my first coconut.
The man selling the kulau (fresh coconuts) took out a huge bush knife and began chopping off the shell and cut a hole in the end for me to drink from. It was so refreshing in the heat!
Drenched in sweat and back to the place we started, we decided to begin to walk against the crowd and head to The Lodge. Every Friday evening the VSO/expat community meet at The Lodge for yoga and swimming followed by fish-n-chips and cold SP (South Pacific) beer. I feel as if I am on vacation!